How to build a camera helmet:
This article was designed for camera flyers that may have acquired a used set up and are now looking forward to assembling their own custom helmet with brand new parts.
Of course following these instructions would be at your own risk. It worked for me but I can’t in any way guarantee that it will work for you or accept responsibility that the resulting product is safe to use (you can’t be too careful nowadays...).
Purchasing a custom camera set up can be very intimidating. Here are some numbers for parts for a “basic” set-up:
Camera Helmet
Side Mount:
Flat top:
Ring-sight:
Quick Release:
Mounting Hardware:
L-Bracket:
Removable articulating:
Cam-eye:
Still camera switch:
Wide-angle lens:
Video Camera:
Still Camera:
~$295
~$600
~$130
~$ 95
~$ 35
~$ 55
~$ 75
~$ 55
~$ 40
~$ 30
~$300 (starting price)
~$750 (starting price)
(Note: The prices listed are for NEW gear. Used gear is also an option if you’re just starting out.)
A new set-up is expensive, but there is hope. If you are choosing camera flying as your profession, it has the potential to pay for itself quickly.
What cameras should I get?
I would recommend purchasing a new SLR camera from a store (because of warranty). A new still camera can range in price anywhere from $500 to $700 and up. There are many manufacturers to choose from. I have had the most success with Canon. In regards to megapixels for the still camera: I would recommend not going below 10 megapixels, this will give you a high enough resolution to submit pictures to magazines.
As for video cameras, I would recommend a refurbished model. I have had the most luck with Cannon and Sony. I would recommend avoiding optical image stabilization because the image has a tendency to be shaky and blurry in freefall. Digital stabilization is far superior for skydiving needs. Most of the newer models, including HD cameras, are going to have optical stabilization so you may have to purchase an older model.
What lenses should I get?
As for the still camera, you can take some really great shots with a “kit-lens”, but you will probably want to upgrade this piece of equipment down the line. Wide-angle lenses for still cameras are not cheap. A 15mm fish eye can cost as much at $600. Shop around online and see if you can find a better deal.
A wide-angle lens for the video camera is going to be very important no matter what discipline you film. You can get relatively cheap lenses for ~$30 (at Best Buy); however, the picture quality is going to depend upon the quality of the lens.
(Picture of Lenses) .5 silver, .29 blue, kit lens, 10mm lens
Check List
There are a few things to keep in mind when purchasing your video camera:
Does it have a LANC port? (Used to attach cam-eye)
Can you attach a wide-angle lens to it? (Keep track of the thread size for future lens purchase)
Will it fit on your helmet? (L-Bracket or box)
How heavy is it? (The heavier it is the more you will feel it on opening and over time)
NTSC or PAL? (What format do you need, depends on what country you shoot in. U.S. uses NTSC)
What kind of image stabilization does it have? (Digital- I recommend avoiding optical)
Does it use a DV tape, hard-drive, or memory card?
Once you have found a camera that you like, talk it over with local camera-flyers and see what their experience is with that particular model. They may also have other suggestions and insight on what cameras are the most air-worthy.
Helmet Assembly
Once you have decided to go for it and you have purchased all of your equipment, now is where you have to put it all together. Before you can get started, however, you will have to have access to a reliable set of tools*. As you can see in the picture below, the helmet has to be constructed pretty much from scratch. This can be time consuming and sometimes frustrating. But in the end you will have a helmet that is completely custom to your needs. Although camera helmets all look alike, each jumper prefers to have theirs set up a little differently.
*(dremmal tool kit, screw driver’s, power drill, wrench, glue gun, alan wrenches, gaffer’s tape, crimping tool, shears)
In the tutorial below I will walk you though, step by step, assembling your first camera helmet. In this case I will be working with a Skysystems Invertigo-V. Keep in mind that this is just a basic set up. The more experience you gain, your taste in helmets and equipment may vary.
Part 1.
Chin cup assembly
Assembling the chin cup is pretty straight forward. Find where the chin-strap is attached to the helmet. Sometimes there is a piece of fabric stretched over it, like in the picture below. Move it aside and remove the strap with a screwdriver.
Once you have removed the strap, you will have to connect the plastic rails that will connect to the chin cup. You will want to use some
sturdier screws than what was keeping the strap attached. There will be a significant amount of pressure on the chin cup, and you will want the connection to be strong. Make sure that you put the nuts on the outside so that they will not push into your jaw when you put the helmet on.
The plastic rails are numbered so that you can find your perfect fit. Once you have done so, cut off the excess to prevent snag points.
Part 2.
Attaching Quick-release
There are many different styles of quick release. In this case I will be working with the “Schumacher Quick-shoe”.
Here is a little trick I learned while attaching this particular bracket- Take some gaffers tape and fold it over and attach it to the
bottom of the bracket, just like in the picture below. Then stick it to the helmet in the way that you would like to see it mounted.
Now you can drill pilot holes through the bracket into the helmet. Once you have done this, you can take the quick-release back off and re-drill the holes to make them the right size for the screws. All that is left is for you to screw the mount onto the helmet.
Part 3.
Mounting the Ring-sight:
If you are using an open-face-helmet you will have to purchase one extra piece of equipment before you can mount the ring sight. It is usually referred to as an articulating sight. This piece, shown at the top of the picture, allows you to rotate the sight away form your face. This is going to be extremely important because you will not be able to put the helmet on without first moving the sight aside. Flat top camera helmets allow you to insert your head form the back of the helmet, so it is not necessary to move the ring sight. I find however that it is a great feature to have, especially under canopy. I like to see as much as possible, and having a sight permanently mounted in front of your eye can limit your vision.
When mounting your ring site, it is important to determine which eye you prefer to utilize. Some prefer their “dominant eye”, while others prefer their recessive eye, it is entirely up to you. Once you have established this, now you have to mount it in such a way that it produces the least “snag points”.
Snag points are any protruding edges or jagged corners on the helmet that have the potential to catch a line or riser on deployment. Mount the ring site to what fits for your needs, then, using the dremmal tool, take off any excess. Be sure to smooth out any sharp edges. I found that what I have done in the picture (left) works really well.
While attaching your ring-sight, make sure that you are using the enclosed plastic screws. In the event that you have a malfunction and something snags on your sight, it will simply break off. It is an expensive peace of equipment to lose, however, it’s not expensive when compared to your neck.
Part 4.
Attaching the L-Bracket:
Mounting the L-bracket on to your helmet is as simple as attaching a quick release. The only thing you have to make sure of is that the bottom plate of the bracket is in line with your line of sight.
Part 5.
Still camera switch
There are several options on the market. The options I would recommend are the bite or tongue-switch, and blow-switch. I prefer to use a blow-switch, I find it to be more reliable and harder to break. However, it comes with excess equipment that might be a bit overwhelming for your first camera helmet.
When using blow switches it is possible to have the switch hidden in a ditter pocket, however, in this case the helmet is a little too small so we are going to improvise. It is possible to mount the switch on the outside of the helmet using a “project box”. You can purchase one of these for $2 at Radio Shack.
To be continued…
